CHECK OUT THIS PHILLY
By Irene Sax

Once you smell the fried onions, resistance is futile. You'll be pulled into Carl's Philly Cheesesteaks, a new shop bringing the Philadelphia classic to midtown.

A cheese steak is a sandwich made of grilled sliced beef, fried onions and Cheez Whiz on a hero roll (which in Philly landmarks like Jim's, Gino's and Pat's is called a hoagie roll). At Carl's, it costs $6 and you can have provolone or white American cheese instead of the processed spread, although some would consider that a sacrilege.

Carl's is owned by Carl Provenzano, a New Yorker married to a Philadelphian. His idea was to keep the place pure and simple, with "no wraps and no salads," although he does sell Atkins-style low-carb platters of meat, onion and cheese with-out a roll ($6). He's also moving "a ridiculous number of French fries, and even more cheese fries," which are topped with Cheez Whiz, of course.

Provenzano says a number of local bars have been handing
out his takeout menus. "The saloons that don't serve food will
call and order 10 or 12 cheese steaks for their customers three
times a night." He reasons that business that will only get better
now that the Yanks have made it into the World Series.

Carl's Philly Cheesesteaks, 507 Third Ave., at 34th St.
(212) 696-5336.


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