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ANTIDOTE
TO A VEGETARIAN FEAST New York's never been much of a cheesesteak town, as any pesky
Philly expat will tell you. Then, a couple of years ago, came Gary
Thompson and his BB Sandwich Bar—a noble, if brazenly unorthodox
attempt, served on a kaiser roll—and good cheesesteaks started
turning up at places like Schnack in Carroll Gardens and uptown
at Fetch, whose native-Philadelphian chef picks up fresh rolls from
Amoroso's, the Philly bakery said to supply Jims and Geno's. Newcomer
Wogie’s, run by two brothers from Philly with something to
prove, is another one to watch. But Carl's Steaks takes the prize,
not only for its obscenely great cheasesteak oozing with the unholy
trinity of shopped meat, Cheez Whiz, and onions, all barely contained
by a grease thirsty roll, but for its spot-on ambience: the egalitarian
crowd of suits and drunkards from nearby pubs; the television blaring;
a 4 a.m. closing time on weekends; and a supremely greasy stench
that will permeate your clothes the time it takes to say "cheese
wit." |
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