Carl's Steaks
507 Third Ave between 34th and 35th Sts (212-696-5336). Subway: 6. to 33rd St. Lunch, dinner. Plain cheese steak: $6.

Unlike some of the city's other cheese-steak venues, Carl's stays true to the classic Philly formula: thin, juicy slices of sirloin grilled with onions on a flattop, then slapped on a soft hoagie bun with your choice of melted cheese. Purists bypass the American and provolone for radioactive-orange Cheez Whiz.

Whatever you choose, the end product is hot and oh-so-satisfying, especially paired with a couple of beers. Our only beef is the cost: Staples like lettuce, tomato, cheese and peppers cost 50 cents extra each. That's not brotherly love, now, is it?


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